New tires are slick and they're stiff. For a short period of time you are actually going to have LESS traction than you had before. What this means is for the next 100 miles or so, while it's breaking in, you must exercise EXTREME caution. If a corner says 25 miles per hour, you go 25 miles per hour. Allow extra distance following for braking purposes, and be PARTICULARLY careful in wet weather. At the end of the 100 mile break in period, you can readjust your tire pressure, and then you can pretty much ride normally. But, of course, you should always ride in a safe and sane manner and obey all speed limit laws.

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Dear Dr. Spoke,
     I just got a new windshield, but it's a little tall. It also hits my radiator when I turn the handlebar. What can I do?

Sincerely,
In Need of Protection

Dear Protection,
     I often trim shields to fit. There are several techniques, but they all start with set up. First put at least three layers of masking tape on both sides of the shield where you will cut. Then mark on the tape the line or contour of the cut. Set up some kind of support. For instance you might get a tube of Styrofoam (available at hobby or craft stores) or a plastic flower pot, so you can roll the curve of the shield over this as you cut. Wrap it in a soft cloth to protect the shield. To make the cut you need one of these tools: hack saw, jig (saber) saw, band saw, high speed die grinder (20K plus RPM) or a heavy duty Dremel. Which ever you choose let the tool do the cutting. Do NOT force it. Feed gently as it cuts. If using a hack, jig, or band saw get a plastic cutting blade. For a grinder or Dremel use a cut off wheel suitable for plastic. These blades and wheels can be found at tool or hobby stores. Now cut through the tape. Have some one help support the shield. When you are done cutting you must smooth and bevel the edge. Use a fine mill file and emery paper to clean it up. Any burr or sharp edge will be the starting point of a crack, as well as a place to cut your hand. I suggest getting a piece of Plexiglas to practice on. A junk yard might have an old shield, or a glass store might have a scrap. I prefer to use the high speed grinder, but this can be tricky if you haven't used one before. Any of the tools will work with care and patience. Good luck!

Sincerely,
Dr. Spoke

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Dear Dr. Spoke,
     What is considered proper inflation? My 2008 AVL-equipped ES Owner's Manual states 20 PSI, the tire states max at 36 PSI and my dealer says 40 PSI. I don't know who to believe, so I currently have them at 25 PSI to try to play middle-of-the-road. So what's the correct pressure?

Sincerely,
Pumped Up

Dear Pumped,
     This applies to any bike: Look on the side wall of the tire. The max load at max pressure will be noted there. Owner manuals invariably give a lower number. This lower number will give you the smoothest ride, but it will be at the expense of some wear and handling. The max number will give the best handling, with better wear due to cooler running (less flex). The ride will not be as smooth. As a compromise I run the rear within 10% of max, and the front to within 10% of the rear. With the 36# tires the Enfield runs, this translates to 32# rear, 28# front. These percentages will give a good compromise of wear, handling, and ride comfort on any bike.
     Adjust up as necessary to accommodate different loads or type of riding. Long trips, heavier loads (passenger), or spirited cornering require max pressure. Get a GOOD dial or digital gauge and experiment to find what you like best. Then check at least once a week. Proper inflation has the added benefit of minimizing the number of flats you may get. Over or under inflation leads to premature wear and failure, and poor handling.
     Check the wear pattern. Properly inflated, you will mostly use the center 1/3 to 1/4 of the tread. Under inflation leads to cupping - a scalloped look and feel to the outside edge of the tread. Over inflation wears out the center of the tread. At either extreme handling suffers.

Sincerely,
Dr. Spoke

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Dear Dr. Spoke,
     So there I was on my way into work the other night, putting along on my Royal Enfield at about 50 to 55 miles per hour, when suddenly my bike broke out into a St. Vitus' Dance. I quickly pulled over to the side of the road and discovered that my rear tire had suddenly gone flat. Needing to get to work and lacking any alternatives, I limped on the rim for the last 5 to 6 miles at 10 to 15 miles per hour. Inside the shop I demounted the rear wheel and called my boss and asked if he could bring his tire irons in with him that morning. Well, once he arrived he jumped right in and helped pop the tire off the bead and pull the old tube out, to discover that not only had the valve stem torn completely off, the tube split in two about halfway around from the stem.
     He's a far more experienced rider than I am and he said he's never seen a tube fail in that manner. What caused that to happen?

Sincerely,
Torn

Dear Torn,
     This was not a tube issue. I see this all the time. The stem ripped out because the air pressure was low. It could have been from a puncture, a dirty or faulty valve, not checking it recently, or whatever. When pressure is low enough the tire spins on the rim, ripping out the stem. The tube is natural rubber. This type can split in a failure. The butyl tubes you are more familiar with would have ripped out the stem under the same circumstances. In failure the butyl tubes exhibit more of a burst pattern than a slit. Pick the material for the type of damage you want to see when you pull it out, but that is splitting hairs. When you get a flat you are still walking.
     After your ride I would have a couple of concerns about your tire. You won't be able to see it, but you may have damaged the cords on that ride on the rim. Also, this whole incident could have started with a VERY small puncture from days ago. I hope you carefully checked the inside of the tire for anything that might have broken off in the tire as well as for any irregularities that may indicate a cord failure.

Sincerely,
Dr. Spoke

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Dear Dr. Spoke

     I hate to lube my chain because it makes such a mess. Does that wax work as well? I heard it's really clean.

Sincerely, Greasy


Dear Greasy,

     I have had very poor results with chain wax, with chain wear accelerating upwards of 400%. Modern chain lubes are a very heavy grease dissolved in a carrier. It goes on thin, then the carrier evaporates and leaves the grease. Lube the chain after you come home so the carrier has time to evaporate. Most people hose down the chain, then go riding. This just makes a mess. Also, it only takes one bead of lube down each side of the chain. You want to get it between the inner and outer link plates so it can seep into the chain rollers. Spraying down the center doesn't put the lube where the chain needs it. Make sure you lube regularly, and every time you come in from a ride in the rain. Doing this minimizes the mess. To clean up splatters you can soak a rag in WD-40 and wipe it off.

     Lube regularly, and especially after every time you ride in the rain. You will be amazed at how long your chain and sprockets last, and how clean they stay.

Sincerely, Dr. Spoke

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Dear Dr. Spoke

     I am trying to find a backrest with armrests so my little guy will feel more comfortable riding back there. I found a couple of decent backrests, but nothing with an armrest. Any help would be great, thanks.

Sincerely, Loving My Kid.


Dear Loving,

     I have been in the motorcycle business for 34 years. Based on the experiences of my customers, as well as my studies of trade publications and case reports I will suggest a different approach. That is: WAIT. If the child needs a physical restraint for his physical or emotional security, he is not ready for this. If he squirms for any reason - fear, boredom, whatever - he will still find away to fall off. Another favorite trick is for the child to stick his foot in the wheel or on the pipe. I have seen children with half a foot worn off by a tire. It takes less than a second. Having to amputate part of a foot to remove burned flesh isn't pretty either. The pipes get HOT and kids do put their feet on them. No matter how safe you make the bike, a quick swerve to avoid a car can catapult a child off the bike. I have seen devices to strap a child to the driver. This works until you fall off and land on the kid. I made my own kids wait until they were physically as well as mentally ready. That point is about four years later than most parents think. Most people get away without anything bad happening. But if it is your child that is hurt the fun will not have been worth the ride.

Sincerely, Dr. Spoke

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Dear Dr. Spoke,
     What are the best crash bars to get? I want maximum protection for my legs, especially if I have to lay the bike down to avoid a crash.
Sincerely,
Scraping Along

Dear Scraping,
     The motorcycle industry refers to these as engine guards. The bars protect the engine. In the 70's (yes, I was there) a couple of manufacturers of "Crash Bars" lost massive lawsuits over missing body parts. Crash bars imply a degree of safety. The technical term for a crash bar user is "amputee". I cannot stress this enough. In the event of a spill GET AWAY FROM THE BIKE! The engine guard is there to protect only the engine. For every "save" you care to mention, there are a dozen dead or maimed riders. I have engine guards on my own bike. They work great at their designed function - protecting the engine. I simply caution against using them as any kind of personal safety device.

     As for "laying a bike down", back when I was a lad bikes didn't have useful brakes and pavement had not yet been invented. In those circumstances you could slow down the bike faster by sliding along the ground than by using the brakes. Today, however, brakes work. Use them to slow down. Causing a crash to avoid a crash is a really bad idea.

Sincerely,
Dr. Spoke

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Dear Dr. Spoke,
     I was wondering if you could tell me a little more about scooters. I am looking for something that can go on the highway and couldn't find anything about speed on your website.

Sincerely,
Scooting Along

Dear Scooting,
     Mix style, 100 mpg, light weight, easy handling, convenient parking, and you will find scooters are fun as well as a logical mode of transportation. However, the very features that make scooters so attractive also limit their usability. For instance, the 49cc units that I carry have a top speed of a little over 30 mph. The cruising or regular steady speed is about 25 mph. The 125cc and 150cc units top out over 55 mph and cruise at 45 mph. This means they are not suited for highway use. DO NOT get on the interstate.
     There are scooters that are freeway capable, but now you are getting into the $4,000 to $8,000 price range. These scooters tend to be large and heavy with relatively poor gas mileage. At this level of performance I can set you up with a motorcycle that will be more capable for less money.
     Any scooter over 50cc requires a motorcycle license; under 50cc qualifies as a moped for which your regular car license applies. It is not hard to get a motorcycle license. If you need more performance than a 50cc unit by all means buy it and get properly licensed.
     The key to getting the proper vehicle for you is to honestly evaluate your needs. Are you commuting 1 mile or 70 miles? Are alternate routes available to accommodate the price point and level of performance of the scooter you are comfortable with? Do you need to carry a passenger? What must you carry with you? Your lunch? A huge briefcase?
     Find what's right for you. Then ride and have fun.

Sincerely,
Dr. Spoke

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 Dear Dr. Spoke:

I need a refresher on some aspects of tire maintenance:

1. Who makes the best quality tire gauge ?
2. How often should you replace your tire gauge ?
3. What pressure should the tire be set at -- the pressure recommended by the bike manufacturer, or some other percentage of the max. pressure listed on the tire sidewall ?
4. While I understand that tire pressure should be set when the tires are cold (before riding), I have also heard that once warmed up from riding, the tire pressure should be at about 110% of the nominal cold pressure. Is that right ?
5. At what age should tires be replaced (even if they have low mileage and appear to have good tread left) ?

Sincerely,
Pressured

Dear Pressured,

1)     The best gauge is one that's consistent. I prefer an analog dial with a hose, and a bleeder valve that holds the reading until released. The hoses easily reach under bags and pipes and the dial is easy to read. Good ones cost $15-$25. Digital gauges work fine until the battery runs down. Pencil gauges tend to foul with dirt or get dented, but are ok if cared for.
2)     Replace your gauge when it is no longer accurate. I keep 2 or 3 gauges and periodically compare readings between them. A large discrepancy in one means it should be replaced.
3)     Tire pressure recommendations are a compromise for wear, ride, and handling. Generally the OEM specification will give the best ride, at the expense of some wear and handling. My recommendation will give the best wear and handling, with a small reduction in ride smoothness. But proper suspension setup will give a very smooth ride.
     Generally, I set the rear tire pressure to within 10% of the maximum side wall pressure. The front I set to within 10% of the rear. For example, if you have tires with a maximum pressure of 50psi, set the rear tire to 45psi and the front to 40psi. For long trips or heavy loads, including passengers, go to maximum pressure. You won't go wrong with the OEM recommendations.
4)     Warm tire pressure is inconsistent unless you can measure the tire temperature. I know of no way to conveniently measure warm tires.
5)     Tires get hard with age. Even if tread depth is good, the rubber may not grip. Tires that sit often wear unevenly. Check for cupping. Is the rubber hard or slick feeling? Does steering feel vague or inconsistent? Your ride may feel more tense than usual from the extra effort required for control with old tires. For safety, never use old rubber.

Sincerely,
Dr. Spoke

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Dear Dr. Spoke,
     I have heard that there is nothing different about the oils from the $.99 a quart to the $5.00 a quart stuff. Can you help the uninformed masses?

Sincerely,
Wondering

Dear Wondering,
     The short answer is, you get what you pay for. McDonald's is cheap, but fast food is not as healthy as a balanced home-cooked meal. It's the same with oil.
     In the past year, both motorcyclist and motorcycle consumer news magazines have endorsed using motorcycle specific oil. The benefits are many. I refer you to this month's moto myths for more specific info.

Sincerely,
Dr. Spoke

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Dear Dr. Spoke,

     I bought my seven year old a cool 100cc for Christmas. He rode once, but won't get on it again. Riding is so much fun. Why won't he ride with me?

Sincerely,
Disappointed

Dear Disappointed,

     Choosing a bike or ATV for your child can be fun, or hugely disappointing, as you found out. The key is a firm grasp on reality. What is your son (or daughter) really capable of?

     Not every child is bigger, smarter, more mature, or more athletic than every other child in the world. Do your child the favor of respecting their actual abilities. Cycles and ATV's are MOTOR VEHICLES. They are not toys or clothing. A child may grow into a pair of pants. Getting him a cycle or ATV to "grow into" is the equivalent of handing your newly licensed 16 year old the keys to your Corvette. Just as you would start your 16 year old on something more user friendly (Kia, Geo, etc), your 7 year old has that same need. Money saved on an ATV to "grow into" is often spent on hospital bills, or wasted because the child won't ride after the first big scare. Small cycles and ATVs hold their resale value well. Get something appropriate for your child.

     Remember the riding gear! Protective gear can be the difference between continuing the ride after a crash, or a kid crying in the truck for the rest of the day. Gear will always pay for itself by helping to prevent a trip to the hospital. It's cheaper than the emergency room. There is good economical gear available. As with cycles and ATVs, protective gear works best when properly fitted to the user.

     Your child's riding ability starts at kindergarten level. The 1st, and even the 50th ride should be slow and easy. they have much to learn. It will be a while before they are ready for a 30 mile ride or a motocross race. Start at their level, not yours. This is the opportunity to build a riding buddy for life.

Sincerely,
Dr. Spoke

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Dear Dr. Spoke,
     I've put two regulators in my bike, but the battery still goes dead. What's wrong?
Sincerely,
Low Volts

Dear Low,
     Your charging system consists of an alternator, regulator/rectifier, and battery. It sounds like your alternator and/or battery are defective.

     The alternator consists of rotor and stator. The rotor is a magnet. It can be a permanent or electro magnet.

     The permanent magnet rotates around the stator windings, inducing alternating current.

     The electro magnet is a field coil energized by battery voltage. This coil spins inside the stator to induce alternating current. If the battery is low, or the brushes touching the coil are worn, it may not energize.

     You may need to replace the battery or brushes. Or, the rotor or stator can be defective. Permanent magnet rotors seldom fail, but the stators often do fail. You need to check both types of systems for Magnetism (energization), continuity, and AC output. If any part of the alternator fails, it usually takes the regulator/rectifier also.

     Permanent magnet systems are often in the engine to save space. These oil bath alternators tend to run hot and fail more often than other systems.

     Run premium motorcycle oils and change often to minimize heat related problems.

     Of course, make sure that all connections are clean and tight and follows the testing procedures in your service manual.

Sincerely,
Dr. Spoke

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Dear Dr. Spoke,
     My cruiser has no spark! Where is the rectifier so I can test it?
Sincerely,
Lost in Wiring

Dear Lost,
     I get this question all the time. But the answer won't help. You're dealing with two separate systems. The charging system consists of the alternator, regulator/rectifier, and battery.

     The ignition system runs off of the battery. If the battery is very low or dead, due to a charging problem, you may not have spark. But, the charging system does not directly affect spark.

     In the ignition system there is a pulse or pick-up coil. This generates a signal to the ignition control module (CDI, Ignitor, Black box). The ICM adjusts the advance curve, and boosts the signal to the coil, where it is stepped up to a higher voltage to fire the plug.

     A spark problem can be any or all of these components, plus the plug, the plug cap, the ignition switch, the clutch switch, the side stand lock out switch, the kill switch, or associated wiring.

     You desperately need a service manual with a wiring diagram, and a multi meter with the knowledge to use it. The only other things you can do at home are replace plugs and caps, and clean wiring connections.

     Replacing components on an assumption is seldom cost effective. Guess right and you're ahead of the game. One wrong guess and the repair will always cost more than bringing it to the shop for a diagnosis.

Sincerely,
Dr. Spoke

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Dear Dr. Spoke,
     My buddy just got a neat new bike. I asked him to let me ride it, but he said, "NO!" How can some people be so selfish?
Sincerely,
Friendless

Dear Friendless,
     Here are some true stories. Names have been changed to protect the innocent, the guilty, the gullible and the just plain stupid.

     Pete got a $7,000 sport bike. His best buddy, George asked for a ride. The new bike had 250 miles on it. Pete said, "Sure" and left for work. George rode to Fred's house. Fred asked for a ride. The bike had 260 miles on it. At 265 miles Fred hit a curb and did $4,500 worth of damage. No insurance on anyone or the bike. A simple NO! from Pete would have saved three friendships, a lawsuit and the bike.

     Jim's car broke down and he needed wheels for a couple of weeks until he could afford to fix it. Knowing Jim to be an experienced rider, Bruce loaned Jim his bike. Jim returned it in a month with bald tires, worn out brakes and covered with dirt and rust.

     Bud, Lou, Larry, Moe and Shemp are all experienced, mature riders. One fun weekend they played musical bikes. Bud took Moe's 30-year old sidecar rig down a cliff. Bud got out of the hospital that weekend. Everyone made a project out of finding all the parts to repair the bike. Bud paid for the repairs. Everything turned out OK in the end because everyone took responsibility for their actions, but a simple NO! would have avoided the whole mess.

     Tom taught Roseanne to ride his bike. A parking lot spill broke her wrist and the fairing. Tom paid for everything, but not before he and Roseanne fought and broke up over who was financially responsible.

     I'm not a real fan of loaning motorcycles out to friends. If you must, make sure everyone understands and agrees to all the terms, conditions and responsibilities of usage. Are you willing to pay for anything you break? Are you insured?

     Even when everyone is in agreement, watch out for tricks. Frank bought Sherry a new sport bike. She rode a few hundred miles. Frank then took her out for a romantic evening. The next morning she was pregnant. Three months after delivering the child, Frank did it again. She is still pregnant. Guess who is riding the bike? He even crashed it once for her.

     Loaning your bike is usually a losing proposition. Your buddy is a good friend. He saved you from a serious mistake. Say, "THANKS!". If you still want to ride his bike, marry him and get him pregnant. Name it after me.

Sincerely,
Dr. Spoke

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